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Penfolds Grange, 2004, 75cl
The wait for this Grange has indeed been worthwhile, arguably the finest vintage since mother nature''''s endowment of a number of stellar 1990s vintages. Just how good a vintage only time will tell, but all current indicators auger (very) well. Certainly stylistically in the mould of wonderful vintages. "It tastes spectacular. Perfect structure, depth and length. Espresso, crushed ants, blood plums, earth, malt, Asian spice, bay leaf, black tea, pan juices. If you are ever going to buy a new-release Grange, this is the one, 99 points!Dark, deep red (at 5 years of age). Enticingly fragrant, yet at once Grange – elements of cola, bay-leaf, malt, Indian spices and nougat. An ethereal oriental lift of glazed peking duck is interspersed with fermented black Chinese tea. Oak at one with the wine, other aromatics unite to create a continuum of spice and fruit. Impressive. Seamless redefined. Classic Grange structure – tight, defined and balanced, with slatey, sandy tannins. Saturated fruits, blackberry and concentrated Satsuma plum skin. A darkened flavour theme of chocolate, liquorice and fermented black Chinese tea mask any overt presence of new oak, courting a long, effortless finish. Intense, powerful vs. composed, polished, enviable counter-balance. |
